New York Lawyer
May 5, 2005

Q:
Is there a rule of thumb for how a male first-year associate should dress at a Biglaw firm? Specifically, I wonder if it is worth it to spend upwards of $700 on a good suit. It makes some sense to try to "look the part," and a classic, quality suit can last for years, which in essence is less expensive than buying a cheaper suit every so often. On the other hand, I wouldn't want to look like I'm trying too hard to look like a partner when I'm so low on the food chain.

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A:

This depends on where you work, and whom you are working with. Different firms have different standards; lawyers within a firm can have different ideas. For example, I asked two random male lawyers this question, and got very different replies.

One, Adam B. Gilbert, a partner at Nixon Peabody LLP, says, "The only person I know who worked at a big law firm and yet wore suits from Sears was David Boies. The rest of us have to pay the price. Invest in a quality suit (indeed, preferably more than one) and at all times present yourself, both in substance and in appearance, as a professional."

So that�s one view. Another partner in a major firm, who chose to remain anonymous, was a little more laid back: "As for me, I can think of two rules: it shouldn't have any holes in it, except for the obvious places needed to insert arms and legs, at least not any obvious ones. It helps if the pants have the same color and fabric pattern as the jacket. Seems that's good enough. And if you can get it for $200 or less, you're way ahead of the game. (Doesn't even have to match the shirt or tie.)"

Hmm. So there you have it. And I�m sure there�s every view in between. What to wear is one of myriad factors in presenting yourself. Let�s not go overboard on this: making sure that your legal work and overall professionalism is first-rate is more important. However, how you look is not unimportant. People get downgraded when they go to extremes, dressing in either too casual or sloppy a manner, too fancy and over the top, too bizarrely, etc. I have heard of many instances in which an unconventional appearance has hurt a lawyer in terms of advancement, because colleagues don�t feel comfortable with the person, or worry that clients won�t feel comfortable with them.

I agree with you that wearing conspicuously snazzy suits at your tenure might look like you�re trying too hard when you haven�t even established your bona fides. However, your point on the expense factor is a good one. If you buy fewer good suits, they�ll last longer and they�ll always look great. So that�s another basis on which to determine your dress. The best rule of thumb is to absorb the culture of your firm over time, and if it�s a place where you want to remain, do your best to fit in.

Sincerely,
Holly English